IRAN - 2016
The primary reason for this venture was to scale Mt. Damavand, the tallest volcano in Asia at 18,406 ft., which is about 45 miles northeast of Tehran. The itinerary quickly grew. When this much preparation to an out-of-the-way place is made, your thoughts naturally turned to what else could be done or seen.
We heard a lot of naysayers tell us how crazy we were to even consider such a trip—they’ve probably watched entirely too much television and might consider adjusting the habit.
Along with 3 fellow trekkers, we headed for Iran. Three of us from Houston, Reinnette, Chris and myself, the other, Will, from New York who had traveled to Iran about 15 years ago. I knew Reinnette in advance having traveled with her to many places.
All in, because of the layover in Dubai, the total travel time was about 23 hours. On the way back, given that we started from Shiraz, had a half a day in Tehran and a longer layover in Dubai, total travel time was about 38 hours.
THIS IS BEST VIEWED OTHER THAN ON A SMARTPHONE
Houston-Dubai-Tehran on Emirates. Easy flight with a few hours’ layover. As in the photo below, it was indeed a nice welcome--express treatment at the airport. We were whisked to the CIP (commercially important people) lounge where were served tea and biscuits while we waited for paperwork to be processed and luggage to arrive. Very smooth. We took our van to the Espinas hotel where we got a short night’s sleep.
The first female we met had traveled extensively and let us know she was not happy about the dress code for females having to wear the hijab or scarf to cover most of the hair and a host of other public display issues. We later saw that there is a lot of license taken with these standards and though there can be public scolding for bad hijab, it seemed mostly minor. Locals pretty universally think it is a pain in the ass. Women drive and are even taxi drivers here. We were told that a woman must declare, at the time of her wedding, any professions she may have in order for her husband to not have control over her employment—I’ll have to check this out.
The generally understood narrative concerning Iran is a bit skewed, to some degree, because the Iranians have powerful enemies in the neighborhood who have outsized influence with the western press and governments. In addition to creating their own issues, the Iranians, for their part, have not managed navigation of this particular international minefield well. That the US has a somewhat checkered past with Iran was surprisingly overlooked by the people I met--or at least they were very polite about it.
Farsi is the language of Iran. I managed to pick up some small bits but there was much room for improvement. Like most places, if you give it a shot, people are appreciative and will do anything to help. English, at a basic level, is widely spoken in the large cities and many people want to practice with you.
من بسیاری از سفرهای گرفته شده است. این بهترین دلیل بود که مردم فوق العاده بود.
Ah, Morning in Tehran. The weather promises to be hot and clear but with low humidity, under 20%, which makes it tolerable. This held through the entire trip. Tehran is a city of about 16M people. For comparison, all of Iran has about 79M people, Texas has 27M and California has 39M. Iran is about twice the size of Texas (see map at end). Cool place but they, like many large cities in the world, struggle with congestion and pollution. There are some major construction projects outside the city mostly consisting of very large apartment blocks. Some say these are pretty sterile as they lack many of the community, family links and social links of the past. In this culture, those links are highly prized and woven into the very fabric of identity. There will be a difficult transition to this new way of living before the sense of community re-appears.
We did drive by the old American Embassy. It seemed to be a place to avoid.
Some things to contemplate when thinking of this territory: Iranians, like many Muslims are not Arabs and are principally of the minority subgroup know as Shiite. They are fiercely independent noting that when the Arabs over ran them in the mid-600s, they had a mostly one-god religion, Zoroastrianism, from back before 500BC which developed alongside other religions of the time including Judaism. Because of different practices, traditions and some beliefs, some Sunnis and Wahhabis (ultra-conservatives) south of the Persian Gulf claim the Shiites are not Muslims. (see map at end) Though often outnumbered the Shiite population have not accepted this without resistance. Wherever there are adjacent populations of these branches of Islam, there can be conflict and sometimes open war as there is currently in Yemen.
In all religions that have survived the millennia, whenever co-religionists, anywhere, are thought to be at peril, you can count on their brethren to come to their aid with sympathy, cash, arms and perhaps even armies. As recently as January a Shiite priest was executed in Arabia for speaking out and accused of plotting against the Kingdom’s treatment of the Shiite population who live on the oilfield edge of the Saudi side of the Persian Gulf. More strife ensued including the sacking of the Saudi embassy in Tehran. It has been closed, their diplomatic relations are currently severed and the propaganda war is at a fever pitch even in the Wall Street Journal.
Though I had heard positive things about the hospitality and friendliness of the Iranians, I was totally unprepared for what was actually received. I’ve now traveled in something over 40 countries and nothing approaches the reception. Once anyone learns you are an American, they are all over you with welcome. Thank you for coming, we’re honored you’ve come to visit, come sit, have some tea, we’re proud that you’ve traveled here, come to our house for dinner, we know what the international press says about us, seeing that all the time, we probably wouldn’t have come here—you have great courage. I had to ask, should I be afraid? “Of course not.” I’m sure this is like most places, if you don’t look for trouble, you usually won’t find it.
O/S the Esquinas International Hotel. Tons of folks from all over the world here mostly on business
Currency Exchange – this is 500 USD – I felt flush. (Most places will readily accept Dollars and Euros. In spite of agreements, access to the international banking system has not been reestablished. The use of western credit cards did occur but takes some savvy on the part of the merchant.
There is little doubt about how they feel about their fallen veterans. Their photos are everywhere—over 300,000 lost in the 8 year Iran-Iraq war.
Typical Tehran traffic scenes. Many think big city taxi drivers like these are crazy. But the results show they're pretty sharp, having great skill, patience and courage. We saw no wrecks, no obscenities or yelling and few horns. Can’t say some did not think evil thoughts. The streets were clean in most of the areas we traveled.
Life is often bounded by the edges of your courage - ADW.
Fun at Lelah Park, Tehran. This fine park is a few blocks and easy walking distance from the Espinas hotel. Before our breakfast rendezvous I struck out on my own and found many adults, male and female, exercising, playing badminton and volleyball—they were very serious but all having a good time. It's good to be connected with a group but being out by yourself is clearly the best way to meet more people—note that as Americans, the group was required to employ a guide and have an itinerary—the guides were very good. This fellow in the orange is Dr. Saleh Mohaghegh Hazrati, bio scientist in Tehran. He spent a significant amount of his career in the UK. He insisted that I join him in morning exercises—he’s clearly done these moves many times and we had some good laughs over my attempts to keep up. Also in evidence at the edge of this and some other parks in the country were overnight tents, car camping, set up by families on the move from what seemed mostly outside the country, principally Afghanistan. Photo bomber in Red.
The parks and gardens are very special particularly given the often arid environment. Ancient kings derived great pride from these and fashioned themselves as gardeners—the legacy of this effort survives today.
Though it may and actually probably does exist, this is the only danger I found in Iran. Wait, playing frogger as a pedestrian crossing some of the streets was a bit dicey. Though there is tighter security at the airports because of concern over ISIS, there was little evidence of police or military presence. I'm sure force was readily available but we saw only one police officer with a hand gun the entire trip.
Food in Iran matched the geography, midway between the Mediterranean and the Indian sub-continent. Lamb, chicken, fish, fresh vegetables and fruit everywhere. I thought I had gained 10 lbs. but was lucky for all the walking. The water was safe to drink everywhere but bottled water was widely used.
Will, the Birthday Boy!
Our first full view of Mt. Damavand after a 5-hour drive northeast from Tehran. This village of Nandal lies on the other side of the mountain from Tehran, about 50 miles away.
After dinner, I struck out into Nandal village with my Fuji (Polaroid-type) camera to get some pix and make a bunch of friends. A few of the people live here full-time but most are here only for the cool summers—winters are snowed-in and very tough. Many people take photos with cell or cameras and show the photos to the subject. This is appreciated but giving them a photo that materializes in their hands and that they can keep is orders of magnitude more appreciated so I took a Fiji camera (modern Polaroid) and many packs of film. It also greases the skids for capturing photos for my own collection. I’ve done this in South America, Africa and Asia—it’s always a hit. These faces are priceless--I couldn’t leave any of them out.
I met this fellow, Saeed Najjar with his daughter. He is a civil engineer. His English is very good and we’ve traded emails. Though most got the instant photos, he asked me to send him some of the dslr photos so he could distribute them. I have and they were greatly appreciated.
Some of the older women were camera shy and they asked that I not publish their photos on any social media. (removed)
Young guys everywhere are proud if their cars.
A favorite for sure.
Great mountain sunset and sunrise
Heading for the trailhead, we look like the Clampitts.
Our Afghan mule driver.
Nandal Village in the distance, high camp below.
Another exception to the established narrative, A Jewish mountain guide, Salim, who had immigrated to Israel after the 1979 revolution but has returned to Iran. Note the yarmulke and the tzitzis.
Iranian Kurds with Reinnette and the tall American.
The sulphur plume from the top of the volcano backlit by the city lights of Tehran 40 miles to the southwest. This sulphur engulfed us at the summit which along with approaching bad weather sure kept the visit there short.
No alcohol in Iran, officially—except for the non-Muslim Christian and Jewish and other minorities. Not publicly available--we saw none.
This belongs on the prow of a ship – this for my Islandic friends
Dog Troll
Third World high camp--right. Note the pallets, the mattresses and the outdoor light! They even had a small generator in the evening to charge batteries.
Devout man praying outside my tent at high camp.
Probably not Noah's ark but hey, there was a nice rainbow.
Nice to be able to give this guy one of the Instant Photos as he has some altitude issue and didn't make the summit. Gave away 60+ instant photos.
The Texas quarters were a real hit.
At the summit of Mt. Damavand. 18,406 feet. Reinnette, Will, Chris, Ali, Allen and Mojtaba.
Our lead mountain guide, Ali Alieslam, is also an accomplished photographer with international credentials.
Second in command: Mojtaba Noormohammadi, story teller extraordinaire.
Bee hives. Honey is a very important commodity here.
Great Afghan camp guys Sakhi and Habib.
Look closely for the big-horn mountain sheep
The power of an unexpected tip
Looking north from the summit The Caspian Sea hides beneath the haze.
Tehran landmark - Azadi Tower
Our Damavand Eco Basecamp Hosts. Ali & Sahere.
Back in the big city--Tehran.
Rouin Ghanavati, our country guide. Except for the mountain part guided by Ali, he educated us and saw to it that we got around most everywhere
Vank Cathedral (Church of Holy Savior) in the Armenian area of New Julfa in Esfahan- note the crosses atop the buildings. Fascinating Museum of Khachatur Keraratsi near. Over 600 functioning Christian churches in Iran serving some 300,000 in the country, most Christians in this part of the Middle East. Second only to Egypt and surprisingly double the number in Israel.
This Bible written in 1447 - before Christopher Columbus' birth in 1451.
One-hour flight on Mahan Air to Esfahan.
Our front desk staff at the Abbasi Hotel.
Courtyard view from my room--not exactly third-world. The outside dinner here was packed. Check the lobby.
The young lady in the glasses spoke excellent English and introduced the one to my left as "Their Bride". she's to be married this September. Note the quarter in the bride's hand. I gave away 100+ of these.
Prayer rugs above; prayer stones, used by Shias, below.
Fun Bazaar selfie.
One shop on an entire street of awesome smelling spices.
Architecture, art, history, friendly people, bazaars --an amazing combination.
Hamid at the Flying Carpet at the bazaar in Esfahan. Come, have tea with me.
Khaju Bridge built around 1650 - It's August and the river is dry. The Pilgrims landed at Plymouth rock in 1620.
First Class at Iran Pazirik Carpet
Reinnette and local serious photographer, Maryam, compare notes. This at Izad Khast, a caravanserai (Silk Road era truck stop for camel caravans) on the way to Shiraz.
Surprise art.
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Primo art at Iran Pazirik Carpet
Persepolis
UNESCO site. One of the five capitals of the ancient Achaemenid empire of Persia
Gate of all Nations at Persepolis.
View from atop Koh-i-Rahmat
Persepolis was built by the great king Darius (522-486 BCE).
Persia was founded by Cyrus the Great who reigned from 559 to 530 BCE., King of Kings, King of Persia, King of Anshan, King of Media, King of Babylon, King of Sumer and Akkad, King of the Four Corners of the World. After conquering Babylon in roughly 550 BC, Cyrus sent the Hebrews back to Jerusalem to rebuild their temple and likely to help him control the territory as there were only 1M Persians in an empire of 25M subjects.
Griffins
These processions depict subjects from around the empire all the way from Egypt and Greece to India and Kazakhstan bringing gifts. The Persian Empire was the world’s first that reached anywhere near this scale (see map at end) and was in full bloom while Rome was a small faraway kingdom on the Tiber river of western Italy. Rome would not approach this scale for several centuries.
Griffins
The wall below is carved in three languages: Old Persian, Babylonian and Elamite
.
A great god is Ahuramazda, who created this earth, who created heaven, who created man, who created happiness for man, who made Xerxes king, one king of many kings, commander of many commanders.
I am Xerxes, the great king, the king of kings, the king of all countries and many men, the king in this great earth far and wide, the son of Darius, an Achaemenid.
King Xerxes says: by the favor of Ahuramazda this Gate of All Nations I built. Much else that is beautiful was built in this Persepolis which I built and my father built. Whatever has been built and seems beautiful all that we built by the favor of Ahuramazda.
King Xerxes says: may Ahuramazda preserve me, my kingdom, what has been built by me, and what has been built by my father. That, indeed, may Ahuramazda preserve.
The Faravahar is one of the best-known symbols of Zoroastrianism, the state religion of ancient Persia. This religious-cultural symbol was adapted by the Pahlavi dynasty to represent the Iranian nation. The winged disc has a long history in the art and culture of the ancient Near and Middle East
You're Turkish
More Persepolis looking south from atop Koh-i-Rahmat
Hey, check out the fist bump. This relief of Ardashir I from 240 AD at Naqsh-e Rustam, site of the tomb of Darius I (below).
Friendly family photo outside the Homa Hotel in Shiraz.
Check the flags they brought us for our table at the Haft Khan.
Evening in Shiraz. Parks, gardens and public places really came to life in the evening with people of all ages out in force. Temperatures were moderate, 80 or so, with very low humidity.
Morning exercise with new friends at the Azadi Park in Shiraz.
Maps to add Perspective
Extent of the Persian Empire 400-500 BCE
Iran and Texas
These combined maps are to scale with the correct latitude.
Headed Home
Photos. Most taken using Canon t6s with about 1/3 using Galaxy s6. Some contributed by fellow trekkers Reinnette Marek, Will Lee and Chris Focer.
